Clean feeder ultimaker 3 free.Troubleshooting Guide to 19 Common 3D Printing Problems|Part One
By niamor2 June 20, in Improve your 3D prints. I’e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA feder my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized yltimaker was stuck in the feeder. Ultiimaker I removed the bowden tube at both ends, removed the PVA filament from the printhead, and cut the filament under the feeder.
But I still couldn’t remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on feeeer. I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month. But I still don’t know how to remove the filament from the feeder.
May be I could try moistening the filament in the feeder to soften it and remove it more easily? Or will I have to disassemble the feeder completely? Any ideas? Did you squeeze the lever on the feeder? Lift that lever up feeeder squeezing with some fingers on the top of the finger and some on that lever.
Also consider printing wedgebot asap:. Yes I tried but it didn’t change ultkmaker. Squeezing bijoy bayanno 2016 free download for windows 10 lever or not, thye fres remains fweder I can see that your feeder is really tight and читать далее is the cause of the ground up filaments.
Loosen it up a bit. Turn clean feeder ultimaker 3 free screw so the marker is at the top. Get a nylon paint brush and vacuum cleaner.
Remove the bowden tube. Then try to dislodge the ground filament while sucking them out. If that fails, try this Thanks for the advice, but I already removed the bowden tube, and I couldn’t remove the filament no matter what. So I tried your last solution, and clean feeder ultimaker 3 free is what I found :. I don’t understand how that could happen, but it seems the filament folded inside the feeder So I finally extracted the filament successfully, ulitmaker launched a print with a new PVA spool : everything seems to work properly!
PVA and Nylon need to be kept quite dry. Especially nylon. I don’t leave my PVA on the printer overnight if it’s not printing. I keep it in a sealed bag. Whenever I get new filament with new dessicant I move the dessicant packet to my nylon and pva fesder as the PLA really doesn’t need it. You can tell if PVA is too wet or any material because it sizzles and pops while printing and comes out more snowy than clear lots of micro steam bubbles. You can put it on a heated bed at 60C with a towel over it for 10 or 20 hours.
I suspect that will work. Assuming that’s the problem. PVA is annoying in that if it gets too dry it also fails gets brittle. I’m not sure this math is the correct way to calculate things for drying filament but it’s what I clean feeder ultimaker 3 free. That should be safe I would hope. It just might take many hours for the water to escape the pva clea especially on the inner turns of filament deep in the spool.
Anyway I’ve used this trick heat it to C for nylon to dry nylon to great success. Thanks a lot! For now I will try putting the spool in ultimakef airtight pouch with dessicant for several days. If that doesn’t work Clean feeder ultimaker 3 free will try посмотреть больше heated bed.
Clena would clean feeder ultimaker 3 free the heated bed, then put into sealed bed with desiccant. If there is a lot of moisture in the 33, it could take a while to get from the core to the edges. Also, it could be enough to overwhelm clean feeder ultimaker 3 free desiccant. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.
It’s easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official newsFebruary 9, freee Share More sharing options Followers 3. Ссылка на подробности Posts. Hi everyone, I’e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, перейти на источник while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder.
But I still couldn’t remove the clean feeder ultimaker 3 free, whatever side I pulled on : I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the ссылка was left out in the open air for more than one month. Link to feerer Share on other sites More sharing options First cut the filament a few cm above the feeder. Ghene 24 Posted June 21, I’m glad it worked out.
I better vacuum seal my remaining PVA filament then. Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up feedef a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign читать больше Already have an clean feeder ultimaker 3 free Sign In Now.
Go to topic listing. Our picks New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official newsFebruary 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any clean feeder ultimaker 3 free. A good ultlmaker sets you up microsoft outlook 2013 questions and answers free success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere.
They’re ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All ulhimaker need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. Register your product here in just 60 seconds. Picked By SandervGAugust 17, View All. Sign In Sign Up.
Clean feeder ultimaker 3 free
BeeTheFirst is the first printer launched by BeeVeryCreative, a Portugal company that used to manufacture low-cost microcontrollers. It is an FDM machine, having a sleek box frame with rounded edges. It offers exceptional print quality and ease of use and setup. The printer has a small build volume size of x x mm. It offers 50, , , and micron resolution to print with various finishes and uses only USB connectivity.
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A 3D printer can print unimaginable designs. They can produce small objects, such as a nut, and large objects, like a building model. If you are a beginner, you can use software that is user-friendly and free to download. They are fun and easy to use. Open-source 3D printers allow you to print with any suitable material from any source. This means you can use third-party materials too.
It allows you to minimize operating costs. Two extruders allow you to print with two different materials and colors to get great print results. Users need to familiarize themselves with the printer and the process of 3D printing.
Manufacturers provide user guides when you buy a 3D printer, which is helpful. The market for 3D printers is expanding exponentially.
There are thousands of 3D printers available for commercial use. Each of them offers certain pros and cons. Companies are trying to make these printers user-friendly, eco-friendly, and affordable.
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Save Saved Removed 0. We suggest taking a look at our Best 3D Printers for Architects for more information. Check Price. Product Specification Videos. This 3D printer is a compact version of the prior release by the company, the Original Prusa MK3S, and promises for providing best in class Add to wishlist Added to wishlist Removed from wishlist 0. Budget is the first thing that is important for any user and the company has just banked upon this logic by providing them a 3D printer that falls LulzBot Mini 3D Printer.
The open-source hardware of Lulzbot Mini comes packed with useful features and makes it easier for users to print with minimum effort. This is an FDM Tiertime UP mini 2 3D Printer. Arguably, the most integral part of this printer is its HEPA filter. The complete design of this part is worth applauding. If you use this printer at Simple in design and straightforward in its setup, Da Vinci Jr 1. Model Da Vinci Jr. Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer.
With great features and various inbuilt capabilities for higher resolution printing, Form 2 has gotten into the list of most popular choices of 3D This article will help you to quickly diagnose your 3D printing issues, and find the solution with our 3D printer troubleshooting guide.
Discover how and when these 3D printing problems occur, and the steps you can take to avoid them in future. This can also result in horizontal cracks in upper parts. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly. The first layer does not stick properly, and some parts come loose. There are unwanted lines at the bottom. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result.
Also important: the print bed has to be as clean as possible. Fingerprints on the plate can prevent the first layer from sticking to the plate. One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight. Explanation: Over extrusion is when the printer is extruding too much plastic through the nozzle.
Filament Not Feeding Properly Proper operation depends on your extruder being able to feed the correct amount of material at any given time. Extruder motor is clicking A stepper motor will start clicking when it is skipping steps. Possible reasons include: Deformed filament Remove the filament from the extruder and check how it looks. Reduce friction Check your filament path for excess friction. Nozzle clogged Your nozzle or HotEnd is clogged.
Pro tip: Increase the Vref of the extruder stepper, giving it a little more power to maybe push a bit stronger without skipping. The Bowden tube is worn in the inside and has increased friction. The bend radius of the Bowden tube is too high. Consider a longer tube or straighten its path.
Or the end of the tube is frayed or has been cut at an angle. Any gap there will lead to clogs sooner or later as the melted filament leaks out around the tube causing it to deform.
Motor is wildly turning back and forth even with no filament loaded: This could be a sign of a loose motor cable either at the board or the motor end, a broken cable or broken or loose pin in the connector.
Extruder Is Grinding Filament Grinding filament is never welcome and not what you want to see but keep reading on how to spot and fix the issue. Signs the extruder is grinding filament: The picture on the left shows a section of filament after it was manually pulled out of the extruder. Explanation: This usually happens when the pressure inside the HotEnd gets too high or if there is anything blocking filament transport.
How to fix: Deformed filament or filament diameter too thick Use good calipers or a better yet a micrometer screw gauge to measure the diameter of the filament coming of the spool and check if it is round or has been flattened. Filament not unspooling from the spool, kinked, knotted or twisted on the spool You may be able to see the issue and untangle the knot or remove a layer or two if there is a kink.
Too much friction in filament path especially common with worn or dirty Bowden tubes Check the filament path is clean, especially if using a Bowden tube. Trying to extrude too much material for the nozzle size Calibrate your extruder and reduce your material flow. Signs the extruder is crushing filament: A tell-tale sign for filament being crushed is that is appears deformed. Explanation: This problem is related to [Extruder is grinding filament] and is usually a precursor of that. This happens a lot when: The feeder gear idler pressure is way too high, deforming the filament while it passes through the feeder.
The same part of filament is getting retracted, pushed forward, retracted multiple times. Printing something with a lot of retractions in short order will wreak havoc on the filament, especially if the feeder idler pressure is squeezing the filament a bit too tight.
How to fix: Idler Tension If your extruder is equipped with some form of idler tension adjustment, decrease the tension. FToo many retractions If the problem is caused by too many retractions, use a slicer software that allows better control and reduce the amount of retractions occurring.
Other Filament Issues The quality and state of your filament plays a vital role to the success and quality of your prints. Filament slipping There could be a thin section on a spool with inconsistent diameter. Brittle filament Brittle filament, breaking or snapping may mean stale filament.
Clogged Nozzle Clogged extruders happen. Signs of a clogged nozzle: Most full blockages will give you an early warning sign by under extruding first, signalling a partial blockage. Explanation: Clogged nozzles can happen due to various reasons. The printer was left sitting idle with a heated nozzle. The nozzle has not been regularly cleaned and build up has occurred. The filament you were previously printing, printed at a very different temperature to the current filament.
Generally once exposed to the air, we Prevent any accumulation in your nozzle by doing pre-emptive maintenance regularly cleaning. Use a filament filter. They can be printed and files are available on websites like thingiverse. Cooked filament blocks nozzles. Use particle filled filaments in nozzle with at least 0.
Extrude a bit of rigid. Especially when switching from a high temp material to a low temp one, or when cleaning up after particle filled filaments. Unblock a clogged nozzle You can try to dislodge the block in your nozzle with an acupuncture needle, hypodermic needle or an uncoated high-e guitar string.
Once you got the clog dislodged, try cleaning filament see FLOSS, a high-performance cleaning filament. Another equally brutal and somewhat dangerous way is to torch your nozzle with a blowtorch after removing it from the printer first! The idea is to heat and melt the blockage within the nozzle.
This is NOT a method rigid. With ABS you could try to soak it in an acetone bath overnight. The acetone should dissolve the blockage but will only work with materials acetone soluble have been used rigid. You can do the same for PLA with a bath of ethyl acetate.
Often, blockages occur right after the drive gear, especially when using flexible filaments. This can be common for some printers, so be sure to read up on if your printer is suitable to print flexible filaments.
Modifications can also be printed for some extruders, files are available on websites like thingiverse. Bowden tubes like to gather debris, increasing friction, causing blockages. Inspect, clean and replace as needed. Also make sure your tube is seated firmly as far in as possible. If the tube moves, for example during retractions, chances for a blockage increase.
Right around the heat break. Usually a sign of insufficient HotEnd cooling or too high of a retraction distance. Stringing and Oozing 3D printer stringing and nozzle oozing are two common 3D printer problems that usually share the same root cause. Signs of stringing and oozing: The signs on stringing and oozing are usually quite obvious, as seen on the print in the image.
Explanation: As filament stringing and oozing is often caused by incorrect printing temperature and retraction settings. How to fix: Increase retraction distance Increase the retraction distance in your slicer. Increase retraction speed Increase the retraction speed. Arrange prints closer Long travel distances around the build plate tend to make your 3D print stringy, so if you can rearrange the objects to be closer on the bed, this could help against stringing 3D printing.
This may not be an option for single item prints Increase travel speed Try increasing your travel speed in your slicer. Increase cooling Increase cooling fans. Print single objects If printing multiple parts at once, try printing single objects instead of placing multiple objects on the build plate. Filament specific tips: Flexible filament usually needs longer retractions as it stretches while being pulled backwards. However retractions on flexibles is even trickier than actually printing flexible filaments, so you might be forced to go with shorter or even no retraction at all in order to be able to print it in the first place.
If you all of a sudden blast it with full part cooling fans, it might crack. Overheating One of the ugliest forms of bad 3D prints is overheating. How to fix: Increase the part cooling fans.
This may not be suitable for all filaments though so be sure to check the manufacturers recommendations. Try printing colder to begin with. Sometimes you can get away with a cooler printing temperature for the rest of the print with the same result. Alternatively, reduce the temperature when the printer is approaching the problem area.
Print slower, giving the print more time to cool down. Consider the 15 second rule: the time for the nozzle coming back to the same point on your object should not be less than 15s. If your slicer supports it, set a minimum time per layer to ensure proper cooling.
Pro tip: you could add a pause to the layer change script and park the nozzle away from the object for a few seconds. Workaround: try printing two copies of the object at the same time, the travel moves between the 2 objects will increase the layer time and allow for more cooling. We always suggest starting at the lower end of the suggested temperature range and work your way up. ASA does not like fans or draughts. Try reducing your printing temperature if you experience over heating with ASA.
Explanation: The heat from the bed tends to be too much for the filament causing it to flare out. Increase the nozzle to bed distance slightly. Walls Caving In A very similar problem to elephants foot, sans the flared out first layer.
Signs of walls caving in: Part of the wall of a print has caved in and then returned to the correct structure after a few layers. Explanation: The weight of the subsequent layers crushes the lower layers that never had a chance to fully harden.
How to fix: Lower the bed temperature. Set your printing temperature lower. The cooler you can print, the quicker the printed filament will cool, preventing layer crushing and caving.
Try reducing your printing temperature if you experience caving in with ASA. Curling and Rough Corners Curling and rough corners is very easy to spot and looks quite the mess compared to the sides of the print. Signs of curling and rough corners: Rough corners are basically corners that are curling upwards. Explanation: Curling as well as rough corners are another symptom of printing too hot — or insufficient cooling. How to fix: Try printing cooler. We always suggest printing at the lower end of the temperature range suggested by the manufacturer.
Print slower to give the printed line more time to cool before the next layer is put down. Workaround: Try a different layer height. In the classic benchy case, printing the benchy at a 0. In other cases, a lower layer height works better.
Experimenting may be needed for your particular print so make one small change at a time and test. Pro tip: Increase overall cooling capabilities by adding more external fans next to the printer or optimizing fan duct design.
Filament specific tips: ASA does not like fans or draughts. Cracking or Layer Separation Cracking can be difficult to differentiate from temporary under extrusion but this section will help you figure it out and how to fix it. Explanation: Cracking occurs when 3D printing layers separate because of the forces exerted on the print when layers cool at a different rate. How to fix: Lower layer height You could be trying to print using a layer height that is too high for your nozzle.
Reduce cooling Slow down or turn off your part cooling fan speed. Use an enclosure Protect your print from drafts of cold air. Change filament Some filaments simply have less layer adhesion than others.
Filament specific tips: ABS is highly susceptible to 3D printer layer separation due to cold air hitting the print before it has cooled down fully. We suggest no fans for rigid. ASA can also be very susceptible to 3D printer layer separation. Signs of layers shifting and misaligned layers: As seen in the image, you can see the shift in the print and that the layers are not aligned. Explanation: Unfortunately issues like this can happen randomly and often part way through a print.
How to fix: Slow it down Trying to print too fast will cause the motors to skip, resulting in 3D printing layer shifting. Pro tip: check your jerk and acceleration settings as well.
Check filament is free A temporary problem with the filament not unspooling cleanly a knot or tangles on the spool might have blocked the movement of the direct drive extruder causing your 3D printer shifting layers.
Pro tip: Increase the Vref for this stepper motor to give it a bit more strength. Layers Missing or Skipped Layers This may be one of those problems with 3D printing that you can live with, although it can be an early warning sign of worsening under extrusion. Signs of weak of under extruded infill: Your 3D printing infill looks weak or under-extruded spongy in appearance. How to fix: Reduce the Z-axis movement speed in your slicer settings. Make sure your Z-axis can travel freely.
Check your Z-axis, Clean and lubricate your smooth rods, rails, lead-screw etc. If the error occurs exactly on the same layer in repeated prints, there could also be an issue with a bent or misaligned lead screw.
Pro Tip: check acceleration and jerk settings for the Z-axis. Check the exact resolution of your Z-axis motor steps and properties of the lead-screw and set layer heights to use full steps. Sometimes, a 0. If this is a newly assembled DIY printer kit, look into the micro-stepping behaviour of your stepper drivers. If this is a pre-built machine, contact the manufacturer for hardware support.
Weak or Under-Extruded Infill This may be one of those problems with 3D printing that you can live with, although it can be an early warning sign of worsening under extrusion. Explanation: Often due to settings being slightly out, while you may get away with poor infill not affecting the external appearance of your 3D print quality, it provides almost no stability to the print.
Increase heat on faster prints You may be printing too cold for the desired print speed. Deformed Infill Infill is usually printed in a regular pattern, like in a grid, or boxes or even honeycomb structures. Signs of deformed infill: The pattern of infill appears deformed rather than printing evenly. How to fix: Infill printed too fast With most slicers, the infill is printed at the highest print speed specified, while outlines for example are printed slower.
Decrease skip You may have set the infill to skip layers. If the infill deforms, decrease the skip amount. Increase infill extrusion width Your infill extrusion width may be still be set at a reduced amount if you were trying to save weight on a previous print.
Insert diaphragm Some slicers allow a solid diaphragm to be printed every so many layers. Signs of insufficient retractions: Similar to stringing and oozing, you will see excess filament on your print in areas where there is not meant to be filament.
How to fix: Use non-stationary retractions in your slicer software This is a setting in your slicer software. Use a different restart distance This is a setting in more advanced slicers. Or use a shorter or negative restart distance to push back less filament than initially retracted, which will help with eliminating blobs at the restart point Printer cooler Stringing at its heart is molten filament oozing out of the nozzle during a fast travel move.
Try a different spool of filament Some filaments are more prone to stringing than others. Blobs and 3D Printing Zits Blobs and 3D print zits on the outside of your model can seriously affect the looks of print. Signs of blobs and 3D printing zits Blob and 3D printing zits are another case of excess filament on your print.
Explanation: Often caused by retraction settings, additional filament blobs out and onto the print. Dents 3D printer blobs and zits also appear on the surface of your print in random locations if your filament absorbed too much moisture. Signs of infill poking through the outline: At a first glance, the blobs in the picture shown might look just like your standard blobs from improper extrusion. Explanation: The blobs are usually a result of the retraction that is occurring at those points.
How to fix: Use more outlines to stop the infill poking through. Tell your slicer to print the outlines before doing the infill. As the blobs are usually a result of the retraction, optimising your retraction settings as well as calibrating basic extrusion parameters will help as well. Reducing the infill overlap amount in your slicer will also help. Scratches on Top Layers If it indeed is a scratch, sometimes it is hard to tell if it is really a scratch or if the line was in fact caused by the nozzle oozing onto the top surface during the move.
Explanation: The long scratch visible on the top layer in the picture shown was caused by the nozzle dragging across the top layer when moving across to go on printing the rest of the frame around it. How to fix: One approach would be to try and fix the over-extrusion or the warp. Another is to use the Z-Hop feature of your slicer. Z-Hop will lift the nozzle up a certain amount before moving across to prevent the scratch. With combing, the nozzle will travel along the outline instead of crossing it and going straight across your print, which will often avoid this issue entirely though not necessarily in this example.
Other ways to reduce 3D printing pillowing are: Print colder or increase fan speeds. Use a higher infill percentage. More infill means smaller gaps, which are easier to cover. Another possible cause for gaps in your top layer is under-extrusion. See [Under-extrusion]. Holes and gaps in floor corners These 3D printer errors happen where a horizontal surface meets an inclined one. Not enough top layers — increase the top layers count so you are printing at least 1mm thick.
Printing too hot — print at a lower temperature so the plastic sets in position faster. Printing too fast — slow down the print speed. This allows the extruded plastic to cool more before the next pass of the nozzle. If kept too warm, the layer will peel back from where it was printed. Not enough cooling — if at all possible, increase cooling during the printing of these parts of the object. Too little infill — increasing the infill percentage will help.
Also look at the minimum infill length in your slicer and reduce this to allow smaller runs of infill to be printed at the edges of an object instead of being ignored. This setting makes sure they go all the way to the edge and fuse together and so help support the layers above. Too much retraction — causes there to be gaps in positions where retractions take place, so reduce this.
Between infill and outlines If this happens on your first layer, chances are your nozzle to bed distance is not set properly.
If it happens later in the print: This could be a result of printing too fast, try printing slower. It could be a sign of temporary under extrusion. See [ Under-extrusion].
Another possibility is wrong extrusion settings in your slicer. Check what was dialled in is correct for your printer and print. Increase your extrusion multiplier Simplify3D. Increase extrusion width. Increase overlap settings. Gaps between thin walls When trying to print thin walls that are not multiples of your nozzle width in thickness, there is a common problem with slicers leaving a gap inside walls, severely weakening the structural strength of your wall.
Therefore you should always strive to stick to a multiple of your nozzle width when designing thin walls to help alleviate the issue: Thin wall options — A lot of slicers today have special thin wall options, make yourself familiar with them and see where they can take you.
Adjust line width — Adjust not necessarily increase line width or the amount of outlines to force your slicer to construct your wall differently. You can try increasing your extrusion multiplier to close the gap by intentionally over-extruding.
You can also set a narrower nozzle diameter in your slicer settings than you actually have fitted. If used with care and balanced against the extrusion multiplier, this can overcome some situations that your favourite slicer cannot cope with. How to fix: Check your slicer settings for thin wall options.
Rotate the part so the fine details are on the Z-plane and reduce your layer height if necessary. Get a finer nozzle, the finer the nozzle the smaller lines you can print.
Redesign the part or scale it up so the features are big enough to be printed. There is specialised software out there that will increase wall width without changing overall part dimension, might be worth a look, especially for architectural prints this comes in handy often.
Lines On The Side Of Your Prints This refers to very apparent lines on the side of your print that should not be there like in the image shown , not the standard layer lines of your print.
Signs of lines on the side of your prints: You will be able to see off lines on the side of your print. Explanation: Besides trying to print way too fast incl. How to fix: Check Z-axis assembly, it may be bent or misaligned. There may be lose pulleys, make sure they are tightened.
Friction on the axes may be preventing smooth movement over the print. Clean and lubricate the axes. Make sure there are no big variations in temperature during printing. Inconsistent extrusion may cause this issue. Lower your printing speed and check acceleration and jerk settings, these may also be too high. Signs of temperature variations: Variations between layers will be visible.
Explanation: These variations in layers are often a result of temperature fluctuations. Check the heater cartridge leads for any breaks or lose connectors.
Check the Thermocouple leads for any breaks or lose connectors. Vibrations and 3D Printing Ringing Good 3D printers are like good speakers, solid and heavy, with some dampening.
Signs of vibrations and 3D printing ringing: Lines are appearing on your print as if they are a shadow of some detail on the print, see the image used.
Explanation: More commonly vibrations and 3D printing ringing are caused by mechanical issues but there are a couple of settings that could also cause this issue. How to fix: You may be printing too fast. It could be an indication that your acceleration and jerk settings are too high. The higher the mass of your extruder, the more susceptible it is to these artefacts when printing at higher speeds. This is where Bowden extruders shine.
Loose belts or pulleys could be the cause so be sure to check they are tightened. Backlash in your motion system. Backlash or in other words too much play is a mechanical problem with your printer hardware. Might mean something has come loose or is worn. Check with your printer manufacturer for possible fixes. Worn or dirty bearings or rods that cause friction in the travel.
Ensure they are clean or replace if needed. Vibration might be reduced by installing NEMA dampeners. Artefacts introduced by the stepper drivers can be reduced by installing smoothers or different stepper drivers. Dimensional Accuracy Of Your Prints To achieve true dimensional accuracy is one of those 3D printer issues that is not easy and requires a very well-tuned printer, solid motion systems and flawless mechanics.
Here are the key factors to achieving perfect 3D printer tuning: Design considerations FFF 3D prints squish layers down, making them slightly wider than the 3D model.
First layer Squishing your first layer into the bed will have a small impact on accuracy along the Z-axis. Extrusion multiplier Over or under-extrusion as well as an improper extrusion multiplier can cause slight dimensional inaccuracies. Printer frame Check the rigidity and proper alignment of your printer frame.
Explanation: Oval circles instead of round ones are usually due to a mechanical problem. How to fix: Check axes, belt tension, pulleys and gears are tight, clean and in position. Check the Z-scar to prevent blobs altering the shape. See [Blobs and 3D Printing Zits].
Leaning Prints The print in the image is a classic case of leaning. Signs of leaning prints: Usually a very slight but constant or proportionally increasing deviation along one axis. Explanation: Prints that are leaning to one side are usually caused by mechanical issues. How to fix: Slipping pulleys or gears or belts can cause the print to slightly shift and start leaning. Friction along the axis might cause it to lose steps. Just a few steps here and there, enough to make it lean.
A misaligned printer frame or bed will result in a leaning print as well, check everything is as straight as possible. Poor Surface Quality Above Supports Sometimes it is enough to print at a lower layer height to get better 3D printing quality surfaces over supports, increasing cooling or lower printing temps. Explanation: The slicer generated support structure is not suitable for your set up and some adjustments are needed. Dual extrusion If you find yourself suffering from this problem a lot, you might want to think about getting a dual extrusion system.
Increase support density Support structures are usually not printed solid, but rather, like infill, use a percentage, often called support density. Rotate Model Often, the object to be printed can be rotated on the bed so less supports are needed. Custom Supports If you designed the model yourself, read up on design guidelines to reduce the need for supports in the first place, or how to place your own supports at design time.
Failing Supports Failing supports are not what anyone needs when using supports. Explanation: Support pillars, especially when setup using a low support density are not the most stable things and will be in increasing danger of toppling over the taller they get. How to fix: Avoid isolated towers, place your supports in bigger groups. Reduce printing speed for support. Use higher support density and if your slicer supports it — a different support pattern.
If your slicer supports it, have a brim or a solid bottom layer added to your supports. Poor Bridging Bridging, i. Signs of poor bridging: Saggy lines in the picture show poor bridging performance. How to fix: Advanced slicer software detects when bridging is required and will allow you to apply different settings for the bridge. Increase extrusion multiplier for the bridge. Try different speeds, slower is usually better, but results may vary so experimenting is key.
Increase your fan speed for bridges. We want the material to harden quickly without drooping. Make sure your slicer is actually using bridging mode.
More advanced bridging options like direction of the lines that make up your bridge or increasing the start and end zone of a bridge can help as well.
Better than trying to optimise bridging performance is trying to avoid bridges to begin with. If possible, reorient your part on the build plate so less bridges are required or add supports to your bridges. Signs of stringy and droopy overhangs: Your overhangs should appear as smooth as the rest of your print if set up correctly. Explanation: Stringy prints or droopy overhangs are usually a result of printing too hot or insufficient cooling. Increasing cooling fan speed.
Tell your slicer to print the inner perimeters first before printing the outlines. If the overhang cannot be avoided, consider using supports to hold them up.
Check your extrusion settings. How to fix: Print cooler Printing cooler is the best advice we can give in this instance. Print slower Printing slower allows the heat building up in the printed object to dissipate before the next pass of the nozzle over the same area of the print.
Cooler ambient The ambient temperature is too high. Burnt Stuff Dripping On Your Print Even if all your settings seem to be set correctly, the unexpected can cause issues with your prints. Signs of burnt stuff dripping on your print: See the drop of brown molten ooze on that picture there?
Explanation: Most commonly due to build up on the nozzle of a leaking HotEnd, but can be worse with certain materials. How to fix: Clean the outside of the nozzle Over time your nozzle tends to pick up traces of molten material, due to over-extrusion or warping or similar.
Calibrate extrusion Calibrate your extrusion rate, over-extrusion will lead to more build-up. Filament specific tips: PETG especially tends to gather on your nozzle, accumulate during the print and eventually drip.
This and its sometimes-excessive adhesion to certain build plate surfaces is why we recommend not squishing your first layer when printing with PETG. Or after it sat in a heated nozzle for a while. Print colder and at a constant speed. Popping Noises Coming From Your Nozzle Are you sure it is popping from the nozzle and not clicking from the extruder motor? Retraction settings Turn down your retraction settings.
Steam coming out of your nozzle Explanation If the filament is wet enough, you will see steam coming from your nozzle.
Feeder chewing filament. – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts.
Ultimaker 3 (Extended): Go to ‘Material/PrintCore’, select ‘Material 1’ After cleaning the feeder, it’s important to check the tension. I already tried to clean the print head, cleaned the feeder itself incl. dismantling it, cleaning it out and putting it back together.